Fashion Pack 2009
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6 upcoming designers make this year's Fashion Pack. From futuristic shoewear to custom-made tees, all bring something unique and stylish to the world of fashion. To find out more about each designer, click on a name below.
Laura Wells
Hoping to bring something ‘new and reviving' to the world of menswear is upcoming designer Laura Wells. With great imaginative vigour and impeccable detail, her designs are made with the modern man in mind. She discusses her love for menswear, plans for the future, and the inspiration of mental institutions.
How did you enter fashion design?
I did an Art Foundation Course at Kingston University and then decided to specialise in Fashion Design as it was something that really appealed to me. I did my degree at Kingston as well and am so glad I did as it is such an influential course for starting out a career in fashion.
What attracted you to menswear especially?
Menswear has a great attention to detail, function and practicality. There are many exceptional, really amazing womenswear designers but I do respect the way menswear designers work to a tighter market and yet create a sense of true style in a really subtle way. I also perceive menswear as a much more contemporary, 'cool' sector anyway, and believe it is home to the most used sources for collection inspirations, such as military uniform.
What are you working on at the moment?
I am currently sending out work to design houses in order to obtain a menswear position.
What are your plans for the future, specifically 2009?
I would love to work in sportswear, so my main aim is to get a job in the new year and get back to doing what I love, designing clothes. Outside of fashion, I want to do a bit of travelling to South East Asia but who knows when that will happen!
What inspires you?
I take inspiration from many areas, be it a subculture, a place in my memory or literature. My graduate collection was based on mental institutions, which was an extremely emotional, deeply innovating source. I like to be quite conceptual and bring some meaning to a design.
What do you hope to bring to the world of menswear?
I hope to bring something new and reviving. The great thing about Kingston is that we are taught in an environment where you think for yourself and I know my classmates all have the ability to create a new, successful generation of designers.
Tell us of any major turning points in your career so far.
Well, my career has not exactly started, as I do not have a job yet! But achieving a First Class degree is probably the proudest I have felt.
What makes a man stylish?
I think a man whose choice of dress combines a classic, simplistic quality with innovative, contemporary details is truly stylish.
Can you give us 2 style tips for the winter?
Layers and modern tailoring (oversized/cropped/sporty)
Quick Q’s
Designer?
Raf Simons
High Street shop and why?
Reiss. I love it both for womenswear and menswear. Its simplicity is so appealing, as is its colour palette season after season.
Colour?
Navy
Movie?
William Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet
Music?
Currently Kings of Convenience and Cat Power
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Samuel D'Avoine
It is the upside-down crowning glory of any outfit, and when it comes to fashion, there is no item of clothing quite like the shoe. One person that understands this more than anyone else is upcoming footwear designer, Samuel D’Avoine. ‘Footwear is important because it sets the tone for the overall appearance of a person and their outfit. If a man wears a suit with trainers he may come across as smart casual dressed. If he switches the trainers for smart shoes he immediately transforms to formal.’
For D’Avoine (pronounced ‘dav-one’) footwear enables the wearer with a sense of freedom unlike any other clothing. ‘Footwear has the same effect and importance in fashion, without having to conform to the rules and confines of society. Designers and consumers mix and match different classes of dress to achieve something new, exciting and unusual (e.g. stiletto's with a tracksuit). Different styles of footwear assists with achieving these unique looks’
D’Avoine’s creativity and passion are the main driving forces behind his ambitious designs. His appeal lies in his ability to maintain a heavily sports influenced look regardless of the original style of footwear.
Innovative and detailed in his work, D’Avoine cites sports as his first love and describes sportswear giant Nike as the ‘ original innovators of stylized, performance design’. His favourite pair of shoes are Converse All Stars as he explains:
‘They were first released in 1914 and have been worn consistently through the decades ‘til now! Pretty impressive for one of the first sports shoes. They are also one of the only shoes that are worn by many different social groups and cultures, and they look great.’
Other admired footwear labels include Lanvin and Puma, whilst D’Avoine regards Vivienne Westwood as an obvious favourite choice. ‘Her designs are raw and free. She's not scared to break the boundaries and produces shoes unlike any others.’
For the Footwear Design graduate, inspiration can quite literally take shape anywhere. ‘I often see footwear shapes when glimpsing at a picture or object, then when I turn back to look, its not what i thought it was. The form or silhouette that i thought i saw often turns into an idea. Generally, the more directional and focused the inspiration is, the better the final product will be.’
Currently, the designer is working on a project for Sharx, creating performance deck trainers suitable to wear on boat and street. ‘Each shoe consists of one EVA mould that will have different attachments and variations. The look is futuristic and sporty with inspiration from traditional deck shoes. It’s a fun project for me as I love combining sport with fashion.’
D’Avoine’s bold designs and unique take on footwear is sure to keep wearers stylish and on their feet. So what does 2009 hold for the versatile and talented designer?
‘[To] keep improving. I have a lot more to learn in the industry. I want to improve my overall skills every year, and be the best designer I can be.’
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Annabel Breen
‘Fun. Quirky. Graphic. Bright.’ In her own words, in her own style – Annabel Breen’s fashion-forward vision is definitely to something behold. If anything, it’s just the beginning for the textiles graduate who has set up her self titled label and is preparing to take the year 2009 by storm, having previously taken part in the NCAD (National College of Art And Design in Ireland) graduate fashion show. Already, she is making waves in the industry, having recently participated in a catwalk show courtesy of designer extraordinaire Noki. The experience was described as a major turning point for Breen, whose plans for this year include taking on commissions or interning for other designer, as well as a possible move from Ireland to the fashion capitals of London or New York.
When asked about what makes a person stylish Annabel offers a simple yet precise answer. ‘When they [people] are themselves. I think most people involved in design are inherently stylish, as they know what they like and stick to it.’ Breen’s pieces are designed for those who like their clothes to be ‘fun, individual, comfortable, easy to wear’ and in this respect, they do not disappoint.
As well as designing clothes, Annabel Breen also creates various art pieces, of which she hopes to hold an exhibition on this year. Her artistic streak lends itself to her fashion design as she professes to a love of notebooks to jot down her ideas. ‘I always begin by sketching’ she says. ‘I tend not to sample, but to put my ideas down on paper.’ Currently, Annabel is designing women’s knitwear which features on her newly launched website alongside drawings, prints, womenswear and menswear. With her diverse range of clothing and fine eye for detail. Annabel Breen’s future looks bright. Keep your eyes peeled for this Fashion Face.
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Zara Khalique
Zara Khalique is living proof that dreams really can come true. At the age of 17, she is already establishing herself as a unique and innovative designer with her grassroots inspired and aptly titled, ‘Dream Factory’ label, the name of which appeared to her in a dream back in 2007.
Her clothes are both edgy and distinctive, a combination effortlessly achieved by the upcoming designer, and her limited edition pieces aren’t the only thing that make Dream Factory a truly unique label, as she explains in her interview. Armed with passion and creative flair, there’s no stopping Zara Khalique. It seems the clothes are just the beginning of things for this young designer...
Q. How did you begin designing clothes?
A. I’ve always had an interest in making things since anyone can remember.
Q. What are you influenced by?
A. Easy! I’m influenced by everything, of course! Major influences are people, music, colour, outfits and play.
Q.What makes a person stylish?
A. Style is SO much to do with confidence, happiness, and boldness. Also, true style is something that’s forever. I don’t believe in seasons!
Q.How do you design clothes from concept to reality?
A. Sometimes I’ll just blink and see the most amazing dress in my mind – it’s pretty crazy. If I have an idea, I just get stuck into making it happen as soon as I can. I lovemaking things happen.
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Q.What sets you apart from other designers?
A, I don’t think about ‘competition’. It’s not really an issue, but I guess what’s different about Dream Factory is that it covers everything! I do custom made dresses, very limited edition printed t-shirts, revamp my customer’s own shoes,lingerie, walls. I make one-off hoodies and jewellery to sell and so much more, under one brand. I like everything, so I do everything. Also, it’s about love, not money.
Q. What are you working on currently?
A. A bit of everything. As I said before, I’m always doing a mixture of things. I love variety.
Q. What are your plans for 2009, and beyond?
A. My plans in general are to keep growing, and to put on a dazzling fashion exhibition-show sometime soon.
Quick Q’s.
Your fave:
Colour? : I can never pick one. I love all colour and putting things in rainbow order.
Meal? : I love food – so much to pick from! Either meals with my best friends or my mum’s cooking.
Type of music? : A big phat slice of e v e r y t h i n g please.
Item of clothing? : Ooh, that’s difficult. Jeans, a good hoodie, lingerie, and a dress will take you everywhere.
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Jennifer Jarvis
Combining fashion with function, Jennifer Jarvis’ range of knitwear is guaranteed to keep you warm and stylish this winter.
Her fresh take on knitwear has not gone unnoticed by the fashion industry, having earned a place as a top 3 finalist for the Pringles of Scotland Visionary Knitwear Award at Graduate Fashion Week 2008. She is currently working with designer Elizabeth Lau (whose accessories have appeared in the Sex and The City Movie).
Explaining why she chose to go into knitwear, Jarvis says, ‘I fell in love with knitwear during my fashion degree. I needed something quite technical, yet creative and challenging. And knitwear was all of those for me. Plus I hated the fact that no one was doing anything interesting with knits, its only just picking up now.’ With that in mind, she has created a truly exciting collection that demonstrates the potential of fashionable knitwear and the many ways it can be worn. Jennifer Jarvis has arrived, and her innovative outlook on knitwear is here to stay.
Find out what she had to say about knitwear and working for Elizabeth Lau below.
What is the most stylish way to wear knitwear?
At the moment I like teaming over-size knits with leggings or skinny jeans. There are some really interesting wet look leggings in Topshop at the moment which would look fab contrasted with an oversized fluffy jumper. Oh...and I absolutely love giant chunky scarves in bold colours, the trend is picking up more now. I've seen people around London with these almost floor length scarves on and they just look great.
Do you have any favourite pieces from your collections, and if so, what are they?
At the moment I'm working for Elizabeth Lau and there are some AMAZING pieces we have coming up, I can't wait to see them as they're being sampled at the moment. From my own collection I was particularly proud of the hand knitted grey coat which got a lot of great reactions.
Why knitwear design?
I fell in love with knitwear during my fashion degree. I needed something quite technical, yet creative and challenging. And knitwear was all of those for me. Plus I hated the fact that no one was doing anything interesting with knits, its only just picking up now.
What is the perfect winter outfit, in your opinion?
A black polo neck under a Sonia by Sonia bright yellow sweater dress. Black skinny jeans. A chunky grey scarf wrapped around your neck like a cocoon. A black trench and some perhaps Carvella 'wanton' knee high boots to finish it all off.
What does your label offer that is unique and different from other knitwear labels?
Elizabeth Lau clothing is very wearable and everything is made in luxurious yarns. The pieces are classic, so you can wear them for more than just one season and you're paying for quality not the label name.
What do you enjoy most about designing clothes?
Seeing a sketch on paper transform into a final outfit styled up in a photoshoot.
Where can our readers purchase your creations?
All ELizabeth Lau clothes can be purchased from elizabethlau.com or in some of the many boutiques it's stocked in (see the website for details) Any of my own creations just go to jenjarvis.co.uk and get in contact!
What are your plans for the label in 2009, and beyond?
At Elizabeth Lau the collection will be expanding and will be available in more and more stores. And I'm still undecided if I want to do an MA in fashion or not.
Quick Q’s
Your Favourite:
Colour?
Grey (although it's not really a colour)
Film?
Amelie
Item of clothing?
Levi jeans that never go out of date.
Designer(s) and why?
Hussein Chalayan, Mcqueen and Sandra Backlund because they are all innovative.
Destination (visited or yet to visit) and why?
I'm desperate to go to Japan, I want to go somewhere where the culture is completely different. It sounds great for fashion too.
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Domingo Rodriguez
Graduate Fashion Week 2008 heralded the arrival of a new name to men’s fashion. It was the week Domingo Rodriguez became the winner of the prestigious River Island Menswear Award at the event, and since then, the young designer has been honing his skills by undertaking an MA at the London College of Fashion.
What did you do to celebrate winning the Menswear Award?
To celebrate winning the Menswear Award, I went traveling around the Middle East for 6 weeks. Since winning the award, life hasn’t stopped. It’s been a dream but it was good to have the time to get my self together and think before deciding what's next.
What does winning the award mean to you?
Winning the award has been a life turning experience. From spending months locked up in the studio, with tunnel vision, coming out the other side of it with the Menswear Award – it’s unimaginable. Just the recognition for your hard work is enough, but knowing I have this great platform to showcase my work and to be seen by so many people is really fantastic.
I’m from a small, very good university up north – Liverpool John Moores – and without Graduate Fashion Week I wouldn't have had so much exposure. The whole team at Graduate Fashion Week is so supportive and River Island can’t do enough. It’s been a whirlwind and I’m so grateful for it.
Describe your current collection in less than 10 words.
Ambiguous, asexual, poetic, soft, shine and lux.
Do you have a philosophy you follow when designing clothes?
My approach is to create pieces with inherited history, bespoke echoes of the past in new incarnations that are underscored with tradition and lineage of traditional menswear design.
What inspires you?
I am inspired by the body, body and its interplay with design through pieces that echo the body; skeletal forms and anatomical structuring created with engineered pattern cutting.
What do you hope your label will bring to modern menswear?
I am inspired by traditional menswear and how it can be subverted. I like to play on the boundaries between masculinity and femininity and how this fine line can intersect. I would like my work to bring an easiness, clothes that feel life they have lived before, for each piece to tell a story and for them to fit and feel without thought. With subtle lux fabrics and each piece exploring the intricacies of beautiful finishes that can elevate and underpin the character of modern menswear design.
Who, in your eyes, is the ultimate male style icon – and why?
Ultimate style icons for menswear – that’s a hard question. I believe a man shouldn't be seen, he should be understated. He should echo and intrigue from afar and up close he should reveal his shape, the cut, hidden details and perfect finishes.
What are your plans for the 2009, and beyond?
2009 for me will be a year of refinement. I am at London College of Fashion for an MA, the menswear coming out of there at the moment is fantastic, and it’s good to be a part of it. Beyond, I hope to set up my own small something, but that’s too far ahead, right now I'm learning, experiencing, taking London in.